Lapo Berti, Dogliani 2024

Location: Dogliani is a small “appellation” that borders the southern edge of DOCG Barolo, in the Province of Cuneo, in the Italian region Piedmont.

Agriculture: The 100% Dolcetto fruit comes from two plots in Dogliani, San Giorgio and San Luigi. S. Giorgio is a south west facing plot of old vines containing silty/clay soil with little organic matter that delivers wines with a sturdy backbone and nice tannins. S. Luigi, facing west, is a well known vineyard that sits in between Monforte and Dogliani. The silty/clay soil has a larger ratio of clay and delivers finer and more perfumed wines. The grapes are farmed organically, yields are low, vines are 20-60 years old, and the elevation is 320 meters.

Vinification: The fruit was picked by hand in early October, destemmed and crushed. The fermentation was spontaneous and relied on indigenous yeasts, taking place partially in stainless steel tanks and partially in open demi-muids (barrels) without temperature control. In both cases, the wine macerated on the skins for about three weeks and the cap was punched down 1-4 times per day during the middle of fermentation. The wine was pressed off the skins when bone dry and transferred to stainless steel for malolactic conversion and aging, after which the wine was assembled and bottled at the waning moon in July 2024, under natural single-piece corks. The wines were made without the use of selected yeasts, malolactic bacteria, copper sulfate, fructose, tannins, acids, fining agents or filtration and the sulphites were kept to a minimum.

Total Sulphites: 54 mg/L

Total Production: About 1000 bottles

Tasting Notes: Very dark ruby with violet reflections. On the nose, a potpourri of cherry jam, exotic figs, cassis, elderberry and plums paired with spicy notes of pipe tobacco, licorice and some leather. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and aromatically intense with currants, raspberries, lavender and velvety tannins, a well-integrated acidity and a long-lasting finish with a pleasant bitter note.

Winemaker’s Note: “Many of the Dolcettos around have had a short time on skins, then are drained off while still sweet to achieve a round, fruit driven, juicy wine. I am trying to make a wine true to the character of Dogliani, not a pseudo Merlot. Wines with savory/earthy notes, fine tannins and a pleasantly bitter finish. This is the reason for three weeks on the skins and a decent amount of work on the cap. It's time consuming and labor intensive, but in my opinion more rewarding”. - Lapo Berti