Bodegas Forjas del Salnes - "Leirana" Albarino Rias Baixas 2023 750ml (13% abv)
Rodrigo Méndez of Forjas del Salnés (known locally as Rodri) is the 5th generation in a family that has grown and crafted quality wine for centuries. Today he is considered one of the greatest Albariño producers in the world, offering more than 15 small-batch bottlings from the micro-terroirs around the Val do Salnés, the most coastal subzone in DO Rías Baixas—an appellation that was established by his grandfather.
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Bright and sharply focused on the nose, displaying incisive Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, quinine and mineral scents. Dry, taut and light on its feet, offering intense, mineral-laced citrus and orchard fruit flavors that show no excess weight. Closes on a spicy note, displaying strong, floral-tinged persistence.
They are increasing the amount of oak, and eventually, this could end up being 100% in (used and large) foudres, but the wines don't show any oak. They blended all the wines before they are put in foudre, and they feel it results in better integration of the wine. This represents the Salnés region of Rías Baixas with the salty and tasty marine and granite twist.
Vines planted from 1952 - 1982. Tended in sandy and granite soil at 5m (16 ft) elevation
mot vintages have very high acidity (9 to 9.5 grams with a pH of 2.99! in 2020 for example)
30,000 bottles produced
The salinity of Leirana makes it a natural pair for scallops, oysters and shellfish of all kinds, as well as the classic octopus dish, pulpo gallego.
93 pts Robert Parker
region: Rias Baixas, Spain
varietal: Albarino
style: white
farming/cellar: organic, ambient yeast, fermented in stainless steel and oak foudre (80% of the volume), where the wine matured for six months on the lees without battonage. No malo. They have reversed the proportion of stainless steel and oak because of the tension of the wine; they decided to use more oak (which is unnoticeable, the foudres are from 2009, 2011, 2014 and 2017, quite neutral), and the wine was polished by the slow oxygenation. Minimal so2.
pairing: